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The right-hand end cap has a groove machined for the cable to fit. All PCBs since 2016 have been directly soldered as the cable can be hidden better than the original USB plug sticking out of the side..

USB sockets haven't been used since 2016, I didn't like the plug sticking out of the side. Connection is covered in page 3 of the PCB assembly instructions, strain relief is a channel cut into the wood end piece to hold the wire but if you have the clock only you'll need to use a tiewrap to hold it ...

That would be well worth doing - I've wanted to make a couple of battery-powered devices but there are so many safety issues posting and using lithium battery packs, one reason the clocks use a backup capacitor is to avoid the inevitable 'does it contain batteries' question at the post office..

Not just yet but an ESP-based mod is in the works. Easiest way to just set time and date is to emulate the NMEA time packet but there is code in there to allow any memory location to be modified by serial data over that input - one of the things that caused problems at time with the IR clock-to-cloc...

Is the base coil getting warm? You should see 40-60Vp-p across the secondary so it looks like there's nothing driving it. What's the power being drawn by the base and is there any other sign of activity from the base LEDs?.

Pleased to hear that. For future faultfinding, yes the IC provides the drive signal but each pad has its own driver transistor or there would be too much variation when pieces were removed. R2 was intended as a dropper if the supply voltage ended up being more than 5V, in this version it didn't so i...

It's much lower than that. If you need any spares let me know as the piece PCBs are still availabe.

Tin the cut end of 2 pins then put a blob of solder on the pads shown here: Looking from under the nixie, pins are counted clockwise from the gap with the first to the right of it being pin 1. Make four of these for use with 4x IN-7A/IN-7 for the '+'. pin 2 is connected to the pad marked 'HV' and p...

D5 isn't used as the final design didn't need that many multiplier stages. It's an air cored transformer similar in operation to a flyback transformer. The exact voltage will depend on the spacing but should be around 40-50V at D1. By the time it reaches the nixie you will have 200-250V, this will d...

This would be a better choice:

https://au.rs-online.com/web/p/resettab ... s/6917557/

Slightly cheaper as well.